EPA approved products 
for disaster cleanup

 

 

 

Betanix UK Ltd
Betanix® 100.1 Painttime® & Primertime®
Whole House System™

MOLD REMEDIATION TREATMENT AND PAINT SPECIFICATION

Betanix® Coatings are compliant with California State Prop 69

Name (To be treated) Professional Betanix® Applicator
Property Address Address
City State Zip City State Zip
Phone Number Phone Number
Contact Name Contact Name

Date
Betanix Coatings Inc Representative
Salesman's Name

A. SCOPE OF WORK MOLD REMEDIATION

The mold remediation work is to be done by a licensed Betanix® professional applicator (EPA certified) using Betanix® 100.1 Solution to be sprayed or foamed. Betanix® 100.1 shall be applied according to EPA label. (Label and MSDS sheet attached).

ANTI-MOLD PAINTING

Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep Solution, a professional mold and mildew cleaner, is used to prepare the surface prior to painting. This product is EPA registered as a mold and mildew cleaner that prevents regrowth (contains no bleach).

Painting Contractor shall include the furnishing of all materials, labor, tools, and equipment required to complete the painting and decorating as specified. The Contractor that performs this work shall be responsible for the equipments' compliance with current OSHA regulations, and to have available all Material Safety Data Sheets that pertain to the products used. The submission of a bid by this Contractor confirms an understanding of all conditions pertaining to this work and proper application of materials specified by Betanix® Coatings Inc.

B. WORKMANSHIP

1. All materials shall be applied free from pinholes, runs, sags, wrinkles, streaks, flashing, brush and spray marks.
2. All materials shall be applied uniformly. lf any reduction of the coatings is necessary, it shall be done in accordance with the manufacturer's label or product data sheet directions.
3. All surfaces to be painted must be in sound condition. All unsound surfaces must be repaired or replaced before painting. lf this is not practical, the Painting Contractor must get written approval from building owner or manager
to proceed.
4. No interior or exterior painting shall be under taken if paint, air or surface temperature is below 50° F. No exterior painting shall be under taken immediately following, or if rain is expected within 24 hours and/or until frost,
dew or condensation has evaporated.

5. Before painting begins, all other crafts shall have completed their work, and have removed all dirt and debris. All areas that are to be painted shall be left in broom clean condition.

C. MATERIALS

1. Specifications are based on coatings manufactured by Betanix® Coatings Inc. except as otherwise specified. Requests for substitutions will not be considered. Coatings used must be exactly as required in this document. The Owner or his representative may request copies of paint purchase receipts from the Painting Contractor. Failure to provide copies of receipts when requested may be considered a breach of contract and result in demand for complete repainting of all surfaces in question. By submitting a bid, the Painting Contractor acknowledges acceptance of these requirements.
2. Colors shall be pre-approved by the Owner.
3. The Owner reserves the right to take a representative sample of any materials the Painting Contractor brings on the job and have it tested by an approved testing laboratory to verify that the materials conform to the
specification set forth herein.
4. All paint and coatings must be delivered to the job site in manufacturer's original containers.

5. The Contractor shall prepare acceptable samples of each color and sheen and receive approval by the Owner.
6. lt is to be understood by the Painting Contractor that all coatings must conform to all state and local regulations including VOC/VOS rules at the time of application.

D. EXTRAS

Payment for work over the amount agreed upon in the contract will not be allowed to the Painting Contractor unless the Owner has given prior written authorization

E. STORAGE

F. INSPECTION

Any work not conforming to the specifications or not meeting the approval of the Owner shall be corrected and/or repainted as approved by the Owner.

G. REMOVAL / CLEAN-UP

Upon completion of an area, it shall be left in a clean and orderly condition. All paint spatters, contaminated rags and trash shall be removed. Upon completion of the job, the Painting Contractor is to remove all surplus materials, scaffolds, etc., that relate to their trade, from the premises. The Painting Contractor shall clean all window glass free of excess paint and spatters and remove paint that has been misplaced on other surfaces.

H. GENERAL SURFACE PREPARATION

1. The Painting Contractor shall be wholly responsible for the quality of work, and is not to commence any part of it until surface is in proper condition.
2. lf the Painting Contractor considers a surface unsuitable for proper finishing, he is to notify the Owner of this fact in writing. He is not to apply any material until corrective measures have been taken, or until he has obtained written instructions from the Owner on how he should proceed.
3. All exterior surfaces are to be cleaned by power washing. lf for any reason the surface cannot be cleaned, this condition shall be promptly reported to the Owner. Painting cannot proceed until surface has been properly cleaned.
4. lf the Painting Contractor has been instructed to begin painting under conditions and circumstances he believes could result in poor performance or
early failure of the coatings, it is his responsibility to request of the Owner authorization in writing before continuing.
5. Remove all chalking and peeling paint by pressure, hand scraping, or other appropriate means.
6. lf mold and mildew is present, wash with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.

7. Remove all loose, hardened and or deteriorated caulking or sealant around windows, doors, expansion joints and cracks in the substrate. Replace all
removed caulking and caulk any additional areas as needed
8. All prime coats and finish coats must be applied shortly after the surface preparation has been completed to prevent contamination of the surface.

I. PAINT SCHEDULE

EXTERIOR: New Wood Surfaces Siding, Sash, Trim, Masonite and Hardboard

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. AII surfaces must be clean and free from dirt, oil, wax, grease, mold and mildew.
2. lf mold and mildew is present, wash with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.
3. Set all nails or fasteners below surface.
4. Repair all cracks and holes with a suitable patching compound and allow it to cure before painting. Caulk all seams, joints and corners.
5. Prime with appropriate water based exterior primer.

EXTERIOR: Previously Painted Wood Surfaces Siding, Sash, Trim, Masonite and Hardboard

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. Remove all chalking, peeling and scaling paint by pressure washing, hand scraping, wire brushing, or other appropriate means.
2. Multiple coats of paint that are in an advanced state of deterioration must be removed by abrasive-blasting, power brushing or other
appropriate methods,
3. lf mold and mildew is present, wash with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.
4. Repair all small non-structural cracks with a quality elastomeric patching or caulking material Larger non-structural cracks (over 1/16") must be repaired using fiberglass tape, filler rods, or other methods that are recommended for cracks of this nature. All patching or caulking materials must be spot-primed with an appropriate primer.

5. Structural cracks that are caused by structural defects in the home, earth movement, poor construction, uneven foundation, or other reasons must be completely repaired before the structure is primed and painted. Structural cracks that appear after the painting has been finished are not covered by any warranties related to this job.

FIat - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Satin- Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Semi-Gloss - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

EXTERIOR: New Masonry Surfaces Stucco, Plaster, Concrete, Cinder Block or Concrete Block

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. All surfaces must be clean and free from dirt, oil, wax, mold and mildew, and grease.
2. If mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.
3. New construction must be allowed to age for a minimum of 20 days before painting. Check surface alkalinity (pH must be below 10).
4. Check for efflorescence, a white powdery deposit on surface; if present remove by washing the surface with a mild muriatic acid solution. Rinse well and allow surface to dry. CAUTION-USE RUBBER GLOVES AND GOGGLES
5. Repair all cracks and holes with a suitable patching compound and allow it to cure before painting.

EXTERIOR: Previously Painted Masonry Surfaces Stucco, Plaster, Concrete, Cinder Block or Concrete Block

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. Remove all chalking, peeling and scaling paint by pressure washing, hand scraping, wire brushing, or other appropriate means.
2. Multiple coats of paint that are in an advanced state of deterioration must be removed by abrasive-blasting, power brushing or other
appropriate methods.
3. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.
4. Repair all small non-structural cracks with a quality elastomeric patching or caulking material. Larger non-structural cracks (over
1/16") must be repaired using fiberglass tape, filler rods, or other methods that are recommended for cracks of this nature. All patching or caulking materials must be spot-primed with an appropriate primer.
5. Structural cracks that are caused by structural defects in the home, earth movement, poor construction, uneven foundation, or other reasons must be completely repaired before the structure is primed and painted. Structural cracks that appear after the painting has been finished are not covered by any warranties related to this job.

FIat - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Satin- Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Semi-Gloss - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

EXTERIOR: Previously Painted Ferrous Metal Surfaces Iron and Steel

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. Remove all rust, dirt, corrosion, and other contaminants by sanding, scraping, wire brushing, abrasive-blasting, or other appropriate
methods. Spot prime all bare metal with appropriate primer.
2. Remove all chalking paint, peeling and scaling paint by pressure washing, hand scraping, or other appropriate means. Spot prime all
bare metal with appropriate primer.
3. Multiple coats of paint that are in an advanced state of deterioration must be removed by abrasive-blasting or other appropriate methods.
Spot prime all bare metal with appropriate primer.
4. All glossy surfaces must be dulled to provide adequate adhesion of new coatings.
5. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.

FIat - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Satin- Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Semi-Gloss - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

EXTERIOR: New Non-Ferrous Metal Galvanized Steel, Aluminum, etc.

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. All surfaces must be clean and free from dirt, oil, wax, mold and mildew, and grease.
2. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions'
3. Remove all rust or corrosion by wire brushing, abrasive-blasting or other appropriate methods. Clean to bright metal.
4. On Galvanized Steel use vinegar wash to clean the surface.
5. Apply appropriate primer.

EXTERIOR: Previously Painted Non-Ferrous Metal Galvanized Steel, Aluminum, etc.

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. Remove all dirt, corrosion, and other contaminants by sanding, scraping, wire brushing, sand-blasting, or other appropriate methods.
Spot prime all bare metal with appropriate primer.
2. Remove all chalking paint, peeling and scaling paint by pressure washing, hand scraping, or other appropriate means. Spot prime all
bare metal with appropriate primer.
3. Multiple coats of paint that are in an advanced state of deterioration must be removed by abrasive-blasting or other appropriate methods.
Spot prime all bare metal with appropriate primer.
4. All glossy surfaces must be dulled to provide adequate adhesion of new coatings.
5. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.

FIat - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Satin- Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Semi-Gloss - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

INTERIOR: New Drywall Textured and Untextured

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. All surfaces must be clean and free from dirt, oil, wax, grease, and mold and mildew.
2. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.
3. Set all nails or fasteners below surface.

4. Repair all cracks and holes in the surface with an interior grade quality spackling paste or filler. Caulk all joints with trim or window frames.
5. lnspect surface for defects and repair texture. Allow texture to dry thoroughly before Painting.

INTERIOR: New Plaster Textured and Untextured

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. All surfaces must be clean and free from dirt, oil, wax, grease, and mold and mildew.
2. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.
3. New construction must be allowed to age for a minimum of 30 days before painting. check surface alkalinity (pH must be below 10).
4. Set all nails or fasteners below surface.
5. Repair all cracks and holes in the surface with an interior grade quality spackling paste or filler. Caulk all joints with trim or window frames'

INTERIOR: Previously Painted Drywall Plaster Textured and Untextured

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. All surfaces must be clean and free from dirt, oil, wax, mold and mildew.
2. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions. grease, and professional
3. Remove all peeling and scaling paint to a sound substrate by hand scraping, sanding, or use of a mechanical sander, etc.
4. Multiple coats of paint that are in an advanced state of deterioration must be removed by use of mechanical means.
5. Repair all cracks and holes in the surface with an interior grade quality spackling paste or filler. Caulk all joints with trim or window frames.
All patching or caulking materials must be spot-primed with an appropriate primer.
6. Sand all glossy finishes to insure maximum adhesion.

Flat - Interior Drywall Plaster

FIat - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 1000 Interior Acrylic PVA Wall Primer
5.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 250-350 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 100-00 Acrylic Flat Finish
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 100-00 Acrylic Flat Finish
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Satin- Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 1000 Interior Acrylic PVA Wall Primer
5.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 250-350 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Semi-Gloss - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 1000 Interior Acrylic PVA Wall Primer
5.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 250-350 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

INTERIOR: New Wood Surfaces Doors, Trim, Molding, Cabinets and Paneling

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. All surfaces must be clean and free from dirt, oil, wax, grease, and mold and mildew.
2. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.
3. Set all nails or fasteners below the surface.
4. Repair all cracks and holes in the surface with an interior grade quality wood filler. Caulk all joints of wall with trim or window frames,
5. Sand to provide a smooth uniform and clean surface. (Omit if wood is rough sawn or textured).

INTERIOR: Previously Painted Wood Surfaces Doors, Trim, Molding, Cabinets and Paneling

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. All surfaces must be clean and free from dirt, oil, Wax, grease, and mold and mildew.
2. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.
3. Remove all peeling and scaling paint to a sound substrate by hand scraping, sanding, or use of a mechanical sander, etc'
4. Multiple coats of paint that are in an advanced state of deterioration must be removed by use of mechanical means.
5. Repair all cracks and holes in the surface with an interior grade quality wood filler. Caulk all joints of wall with trim or window frames. All
patching or caulking materials must be spot-primed with an appropriate Primer.
6. Sand all glossy finishes ensuring maximum adhesion.

FIat - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Satin- Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Semi-Gloss - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

INTERIOR: New Non-Ferrous Metal Surfaces Galvanized Steel, Aluminum, etc.

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. All surfaces must be clean and free from corrosion, dirt, oil, wax, grease and mold and mildew.
2. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions.
3. Remove all corrosion by sanding, scraping, wire brushing, abrasive blasting, or other appropriate methods.
4. On Galvanized Steel use vinegar wash'
5. Apply appropriate primer.

INTERIOR: Previously Painted Non-Ferrous Metal Galvanized Steel, Aluminum, etc.

SURFACE PREPARATION:

1. All surfaces must be clean and free from dirt, oil, Wax, grease, and mold and mildew.
2. Remove all rust and corrosion by sanding, scraping, wire brushing, or other appropriate methods. Spot prime all bare metal with appropriate
primer.
3. Remove all peeling and scaling paint by hand scraping, sanding, or other appropriate means. Spot prime all bare metal with appropriate
primer.
4. Multiple coats of paint that are in an advanced state of deterioration must be removed by hand scraping, sanding, brushing, or mechanical
methods. spot prime all bare metal with appropriate primer.
5. All glossy surfaces must be dulled to provide adequate adhesion of new coatings.
6. lf mold and mildew is present, clean with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's application directions'.

FIat - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 100-00 100% Acrylic Flat Wall
3.9 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Satin- Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 200-00 100% Acrylic Satin Enamel
4.3 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Semi-Gloss - Exterior Wood Surfaces

1st Coat BX 2000 100% Acrylic Stain Blocking Primer
3.6 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
2nd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.
3rd Coat BX 300-00 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss Enamel
4.2 wet mils, 1.5 dry mils -- 300-400 sq. ft.

Appendix A

SURFACE CONDITIONS

The most important part of repainting any surface is the preparation; especially the cleaning. The most common of all causes of repaint failures are faulty
surface conditions, inadequate preparation, and moisture. These surface conditions and problems include dirt, dust, rust, chalk, grease, wax, polishes,
wall paper paste, calcimine, soap film, alkali or surfaces that are wet, or damp, glazed, glossy and not etched, resinous, soft or crumbly. Sufaces that are improperly or inadequately protected against the entry of exterior moisture or interior humidity and condensation can also represent problems.

ln some cases, it is necessary to sandblast or water blast masonry surfaces to remove old coatings that no longer provide a sound surface for repainting. ln many cases, normal scraping and wire brushing will remove loose paint satisfactorily.

Several potential cleaning methods should be tested prior to selecting the method or methods of cleaning that would be the "gentlest means possible" yet
achieving the level of cleanliness required.

Cleaning methods generally are divided into three major groups: water, chemical, and mechanical (abrasive). Water methods soften the dirt and rinse the deposits from the surface. High-pressure water methods are quicker and more effective than low-pressure methods. Chemical cleaners react with the dirt and/or masonry to hasten the removal process; the deposits, reaction products and excess chemicals are then rinsed away with water. Mechanical methods include grit blasting (usually sand blasting), grinders. sanding discs, and sandpaper, which remove the dirt by abrasion and are usually followed by a water rinse.

PREPARATION FOR PAINTING

EXTERIOR
All exterior surfaces should be inspected prior to repainting to determine necessary repairs. Remove all loose paint by scraping, sanding or wire brushing. Expansioh cracks or breaks generally occur in masonry or plaster surfaces. Weather conditions contribute to this problem by causing the surface to expand when hot and contract when cold. The resulting stress causes breaks and cracks that must be repaired by filling before repainting. When water-mixed grouting materials are used as the filler, cracks must be wet thoroughly beforehand to prevent dry masonry from absorbing the water from the filler, which causes the filler to fall out or break away from the sides of the crack.

EXTERIOR PRIMER APPLICATION
The primer or undercoater is the foundation on which the life of the paint job rests. Thus, the best primer available is the most economical because it governs the durability and appearance of the entire finishing system. Surfaces to be primed should be dry and sound. lf the presence of moisture is questionable, have the surfaces checked with a moisture meter. lf surfaces are dry, the prime coat may be applied with satisfactory results.

When this procedure is followed, finish coats should be applied within a reasonable time. lf the job is delayed until the prime coat becomes chalky or weathered, an extra coat of primer may be required. lf the prime coat weathers until it is excessively hard, the finish coat (any type of paint) may not penetrate or adhere properly and peeling will result. When such a prime coat condition exists and it is desired to repaint at once, the prime coat should be well sanded or otherwise prepared to receive the finish coat.

When spot priming, the edges of the primed area should be feather-edged and should overlap the old finish sufficiently to provide adequate protection.

The elasticity and adhesion of paints are adversely affected by cold weather. This does not necessarily mean freezing temperatures, paint should not be applied when either surface, air or paint temperature is below 50"F'

INTERIOR
AIl minor cracks and holes in concrete or plaster and drywall surfaces should be filled with a spackling compound. Major repairs should be made by patching with a concrete patch or plaster, and drywall should be replaced where necessary. Voids around doors, window casings, cabinets, etc., should be caulked with an acrylic type caulking compound.

When patching or replacing plaster or drywall, the area should be spot primed with a primer-sealer. lf the repair is a major part of the area, the entire surface should be coated with a primer-sealer after spot priming and before finish coats are applied.

lnterior wood requires very little preparation other than spot priming and filling with putty or wood-patching compound, followed by smooth sanding.

Appendix B

COMMON PAINT PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

MOISTURE
More paint failures are attributed to excessive moisture content within the surface to be painted than any other cause. Major sources of water entry include cracks in the substrate or around doors, windows, joints or other dissimilar surfaces, lack of a watertight seal around flashings, roof problems, improper seal of the back side of a parapet wall, and uncapped horizontal surfaces that will allow water to puddle. Proper ventilation is required in areas subject to high humidity and condensations i.e. shower rooms.

Particular attention should be given to see that the tops of walls (where no overhang is provided) are properly capped with metal or other non-penetrating capping, and that the walls and the back of parapet walls are properly sealed to prevent the entrance of moisture. Constant vigilance and inspection can minimize these potential sources of moisture trouble.

ln colder climates, it is during the winter months that moisture develops from cooking, showers, washers and dryers, and other ordinary household functions. During this time moisture has no exit other than through the walls.

It is during the warm spring months that blistering and peeling begin as the sun heats the siding. Water trapped in the wood is vaporized and resulting pressures blister the paint coating.

Frequently, wood that has been painted for years without apparent problems will suddenly peel. This can be caused by increased moisture, also as the wood expands and contracts with temperature fluctuation.

lf the paint bond anywhere in the existing paint system is weak, the application of new paint may cause a paint failure. That is, if you have an old house with a thick paint build-up, your new paint job may be the last straw. New paint shrinks and expands with changes in temperature, and can cause the old paint underneath to lose its elasticity.

CORRECTIVE PROCEDURES
Remove all old paint by scraping, wire brushing and sanding. old paint can sometimes be burned off with a blow torch or propane burner, but this should only be done by professionals that have obtained burning permits from local fire departments.

Spot prime, and then apply caulking or putty to fill voids that allow water to penetrate.

Preparation is followed with primer and finish coats.

GLOSSY SURFACES
Glossy surfaces should be sanded, and dusted clean followed by rinsing with clear water, or treated with a liquid sandpaper to provide a roughened sudace or "tooth" for proper adhesion.

CHALKING
Chalking is the formation of a loosely bound powder on the surface of a paint film. lt is caused by the destruction of the paint binder by sun and moisture, insufficient binder to wet the pigment, or the addition of too much thinner to the paint. As the binder disintegrates, the pigments are left exposed on the surface as a fine powder. Rubbing the surface with a finger or a dark cloth will reveal the severity of the chalking condition.

There are various degrees of chalking. Paints may chalk mildly and still maintain a good surface, free from cracking-, and retain good moisture and weather resisting properties for many years. Very light chalking, particularly on white paint, is often desirable because the surface powder washes off with rainfall to rnaintain a clean surface.

Medium and heavy chalking will cause a tinted paint to lose its color and become lighter. Severe chalking makes repainting a problem because the extreme porosity of the surface powder affects adhesion and does not offer the paint a firm surface to bond to. This is particularly true of latex topcoats, which tend not to penetrate and therefore will bond only to the surface powder.

Excessive chalk must be removed by sanding, wire brushing, sandblasting, water blasting, or other suitable means to have a firm, clean, and sound surface'

EFFLORESCENCE
Various salts occur as an impurity in concrete. They are sufficiently water-soluble to dissolve and then be carried to the surface as the moisture works its way out' Upon evaporation of the water, these salts are left as a crusty white deposit. This is the most common form of efflorescence.

Efflorescence must be removed by scraping and washing the area with a solution of 10% muriatic acid and water.

CAUTION: Wear glosses and rubber gloves when applying solution. Remove by washing thoroughly with clear water before painting.

BROWN STAINING OF PAINT
Stains on cedar and redwood are due primarily to moisture and insufficient priming. Moisture carries water-soluble color extractive (tannins) contained in the wood through the film. Staining due to tannins is more pronounced in lighter paint colors.

First, the Source of moisture should be located and corrected' Remove loose or cracked caulking and repair with a quality product. Wash the stained surface with a required cleaner and allow to dry.

ln severe cases, use two coats of primer before top coating. The tannins will retard the drying of primers and in some cases you will have to wait three to five days for the primer to cure sufficiently before recoating

ln spite of all precautions, a certain amount of bleeding is likely to occur during the first year. lt is worth waiting through this period before repainting because these surJace deposits often weather away or can be washed off with detergent and water.

SOILED OR WAXED WOODWORK
Dust and did should be removed by washing with a mild solution of detergent and warm water and rinsed clean'

Wax or grease should be removed by wiping with mineral spirits, followed by a thorough washing with mild soap solution and rinsing clean with hot water.

CALCIMINE OR SIMILAR COATINGS
These coatings are water-soluble and must be removed by washing before repainting.

Paint applied over calcimine will adhere to the coating but generally will break the bond of the calcimine coating, causing a peeling condition.

CHIPPED OR BADLY SCALED PAINTED WOODWORK
This is usually caused by use of paint that becomes hard and brittle with age. Removal of the old paint may be done by various methods, including sanding if the damage is only spotty or by using a liquid paint and varnish remover. The remover should be-used in accordance with manufacturer's label directions.

MOLD AND MILDEW
Mold and mildew are plants of the fungus family, and grow from microscopic seeds, called spores, on organic materials such as wood, concrete, textiles, and paints to mention only a few food sources. Mold and mildew will also feed on a superficial film of dirt, grease, or other organic matter found on surfaces like glass, metal or porcelain enamel. Often mold and mildew are thought to be [rowing on paint and are actually growing on. a "surface film" which has accumulated on the paint, rather than on the paint itself .

Two things are necessary for mold and mildew to grow: food and moisture. This generally-produces a blotchy discoloration on the surface that resembles dirt. To identify mold or mildew, spray Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, on a small spot of colored. area and wipe ott with a damp cloti-r oi sponge, if the discoloration disappears, it is either mold or mildew.

Any surface showing mold or mold and mildew must be completely cleaned with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to the manufacturer's application directions.

Betanix® painttime® and Primertime® paints and primers should be used to paint surfaces for protection from mold and mildew.

HARDBOARD SIDING
Hardboard siding is manufactured in a variety of smooth, textured or embossed surfaces. The manufacturing process takes wood chips, which have been reduced to fiber and hot pressed at temperatures sufficiently elevated to activate the natural lignin, as well as the added exterior resins used to create fiber-to-fiber bonding. Water repellent materials, usually waxes, are added during manufacture to increase the water resistance of this wood fiber and the long-term weatherability of the substrate. Hardboard manufacturers recommend two coats of latex paint to decrease the possibility of wax migration from within the hardboard to the surface of the latex coating. Wax migration stains can be removed from latex coatings with various petroleum-based solvents'

The need to repaint is best dictated by the degree of wear or erosion of the old paint. Specifically, refinishing is indicated if the surface is discolored and blotchy or if the coating-is too thin, porous, checked, cracked, scaling or chalking to a point where it no longer protects or hides the surface. Severe paint cracking, flaking or peeling is not normal paint weathering. Such problems may be caused by inferior paints, incompatible or dissimilar paints.

lmproper painting procedures such as poor surface preparation, over dilution of paints, insufficient or excessive coverage, application on wet surfaces, painting at unfavorable temperatures, or inadequate construction which permits water or water vapor to reach, condense or freeze on the back side of the siding.

The recommended surface preparations are as follows: Remove chalky paint or stain, dirt, dust and grease by high-pressure water cleaning. Hard-board requires that a broad fan tip be used for cleaning and not a 0° blasting tip. Care must be taken when cleaning using a 15°/40° fan tip so as not to damage the substrate.

Further cleaning may be done by brushing (using a Palmyra type scrub brush), sanding and careful scraping.

To assure paint adhesion on certain glossy type finishes or unweathered areas, it may be necessary to scuff-sand these surfaces prior to
repainting.

Check for loose or cracked caulking, which should be removed and replaced with good quality caulk, one which is flexible and paintable.

Dents or gouges can be filled with an exterior grade spackling compound that may be molded to conform to textured surfaces. Use sandpaper to
smooth rough or uneven areas. Dents in smooth surface siding are filled slightly higher than the siding and when dry, the spackle is sanded flush
with the surface. Spot prime all repairs.

All areas where there is mold or mildew, or the possibility of mold or mildew, should be cleaned first before painting with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep, a professional cleaner, according to manufacturer's direction.

Bare areas or extremely weathered areas should be primed with high quality exterior alkyd wood primer or acrylic stain blocking primer. Finish
with a high quality 100% acrylic topcoat.

The following finish coats are not recommended: shake and shingle paint, clear coatings, wood preservatives, poly-vinyl-acetate, and vinyl acrylic or
vinyl acetate acrylic copolymer paints. However, special formulations specifically for hardboard, if so stated on the label of the container may be
used. Stain: apply stain to textured hardboard only - do not apply stains to smooth hardboard. Use opaque 100% acrylic latex stains. Other types of
stains are not recommended.

NON-FERROUS METAL

GALVANIZED METAL
Galvanized metal is less subject to corrosion than iron and steel but often presents greater problems in obtaining proper adhesion.

Generally a peeling condition on galvanized metal is caused by use of an improper primer. All loose material should be hand or power tool removed,
feathering the edges to the remaining coating and spot primed preferably by brush. Peeling may continue until all of the old paint has lost its adhesion.

ALUMINUM
Surfaces should be solvent-cleaned to remove oil, dirt and grease. lf surfaces are weathered, wire brush and sand to remove corrosion.

STAINLESS STEEL, CHROMIUM AND NICKEL
Good adhesion is difficult to obtain on these surfaces. Sanding with wet or dry paper or other methods should provide tooth. Priming undercoats and finish coats of an applicable system.

COPPER, BRASS, LEAD AND BRONZE
Surfaces must be clean and free of all corrosion. lf surfaces for adhesion should be provided then undercoat and finish system. Pretreatment or metal priming is not necessary.

CONCRETE FLOORS AND STAIRS
Concrete floors have always been difficult to paint satisfactorily. Abrasion resistance is not sufficient to withstand heavy traffic for long periods of time. The problems of moisture, adhesion and resistance to alkalinity are also hazards to the performance of paint applied to concrete floors.

Most concrete floors below grade are difficult to paint because of moisture entering the surface from the underside. The surface should be tested for moisture prior to painting. A test may be performed by placing a piece of polyethylene sheeting (about one yard square) on the floor and taping the edges to the floor with masking tape. Allow to remain on floor for 24 hours or more and remove. lf the floor under the sheeting is damp, moisture is passing through the surface in sufficient quantity to cause paint to peel. Such surfaces should be made waterproof before Painting.

All bare concrete floors should be acid etched prior to painting' Etching provides for better adhesion and, at the same time, neutralizes the alkalinity of the surface. Do not apply finish coating until floor is completely dry.

ACOUSTICAL SURFACES
Acoustical tiles or blocks are made of various materials and there are several different types. They have one thing in common all are highly porous, for the purposes of absorbing sound waves instead of reflecting them. Accordingly, painting them requires special care in order not to destroy this sound absorbing property. The less frequently they are painted the better'

Before painting, acoustical surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned, preferably with a vacuum cleaner, to remove dust from the pores. lf previously painted, surfaces may be washed with soap and water and rinsed with clear water.

Perforated metal and acoustical materials should be refinished by spray painting, because brush or roller application will fill, or partially fill, the fine perforations common to this type of surface. Acoustical plaster, however, should not be painted with a material that will close or seal the small surface pores. Flat latex paints applied by spray are recommended for acoustical plaster. Latex paints do not require a primer. Acoustical surfaces should be painted with a flat latex paint'

Fiberglass (solid-type) acoustical units are affected by painting. When this type of unit has been- painted, the sound-absorbing qualities may be restored by perforating the painted surfaces with a pin-type roller.

COATING SYSTEM COMPATIBILITY
A compatible coating system is one in which each applied coat contributes to the overall performance-capability of the system by bonding properly to the substrate or coating beneath it without the development of adverse effects such as lifting, wrinkling,-mottling, bleeding, etc. The most common of these adverse effects is lifting. The solvent in the applied paint acting as a paint remover on the coating underneath produces lifting. The result is a softening, swelling and lifting of the coating. lt can happen when paints such as urethanes, epoxies, chlorinated rubber, etc., which contain strong solvents are applied over relatively soft paints such as oil base paints.

ln maintenance applications, if the old coating system is not completely removed, compatibility with the previous paint system may be a deciding factor in system selection. In this situation, it may be necessary to use a special barrier coat to prevent lifting of the original film. If the original topcoat is unknown, or if lifting is suspected, primers and new topcoats used for spot repair should first be patch tested to ensure that lifting of the old coating will not occur.

PREPARATION FOR SURFACES RECEIVING WALL COVERING
Surfaces receiving wall covering should always be properly prepared by cleaning with Betanix® 100.1 Paint Prep and sealing the surface with a flat, acrylic primer. This is especially true for enameled surfaces, particularly kitchen or bath areas, because of the gloss finish and possible accumulation of grease and dirt.